I've discovered that it is possible to view the 1619 Project using IceCat by clicking on the "Reveal Hidden HTML" button that appears at the bottom right corner of the window.

In other graphical web browsers, open the "web developer tools," usually by pressing the F12 key, then switch to the console and run:

(() => {
  Array.from (document.styleSheets).forEach (e => { e.disabled = true; })
  document.querySelectorAll ("*").forEach (e => e.removeAttribute ("style"))
})()

You should paste and run that as a single block. It reveals the contents of the 1619 Project page.

The New York Times ought to use Javascript to make the contents initially invisible — that way, when Javascript is not running, the contents will be visible.

If you know a way to pass that message to the Times, please do so. They might fix this, since it won't be a big change.